Suspension Setup Made Easy – How to Take Your Mountain Bike to the Next Level

Setting up your suspension correctly can transform your ride. Many riders focus on fine-tuning settings without getting the basics right. The truth is, if your sag is set correctly, you’re already 90% there. The rest is just tweaking to personal preference and trail conditions. In this guide, I’ll walk you through setting up your suspension—specifically on my Santa Cruz Heckler—but the principles apply to any mountain bike. Let’s break it down step by step so you can get the most out of your ride.

Step 1: Setting the Sag

Sag is the amount your suspension compresses under your body weight. Getting this right ensures your bike responds properly to terrain changes.

Here’s how to do it:

1. Gear up – Wear your full riding kit, including a hydration pack if you use one. Weight matters!
2. Check the lockout – Make sure your fork and shock are fully open (no lockout engaged).
3. Find support – Stand next to a wall or grab a friend to steady you.
4. Mount your bike – Get into a neutral riding position (standing, centered, feet level).
5. Bounce a bit – Compress and release your suspension a few times to let it settle.
6. Adjust the O-ring – Slide the rubber O-ring down to the shock body.
7. Carefully dismount – Do this without bouncing or braking excessively.
8. Measure the sag – Use a ruler to check how far the O-ring has moved. Divide this number by the total shock stroke to get the sag percentage.

For example, on my Santa Cruz Heckler with a Fox Float Performance shock, I weigh 82kg and run about 220psi, giving me a sag of 28-30% (15-17mm of the 55mm stroke). Adjust your air pressure accordingly until you hit the right sag.

Step 2: Setting Fork Sag

The process for the fork is almost the same as the rear shock:

1. Use the fork’s O-ring to measure travel.
2. Repeat the same steps as above.
3. Refer to manufacturer recommendations – Different forks have different sag recommendations, usually between 15-25%.

Step 3: Adjusting Rebound and Compression

Your suspension has two primary damping adjustments:

Rebound (Controls how fast the suspension extends after a hit)

• Too fast? Your bike feels bouncy and unstable.
• Too slow? Your suspension “packs down” and doesn’t recover fast enough.
• Start with 5-6 clicks from fully closed and fine-tune from there.

Compression (Controls how much force is needed to compress the suspension)

• Too firm? You’ll lose traction and feel every bump.
• Too soft? You’ll bottom out too often.
• Start with low-speed compression slightly open and increase if needed.

High-end suspension allows further fine-tuning:

• High-Speed Compression (HSC): Affects sudden, big hits.
• Low-Speed Compression (LSC): Affects gradual weight shifts.

Key Terms & Tips

• Sag: The percentage of total travel used when you sit on the bike.
• Shock Stroke: The actual movement of the shock shaft (not total rear-wheel travel).
• Damping: Controls how fast suspension compresses and rebounds.
• Bottom-Out: When the suspension fully compresses.
• Packing Down: When slow rebound causes the suspension to get stuck in compression.

Pro Tips:

✅ Adjust one thing at a time – Change air pressure, then test. Change rebound, then test. ✅ Keep a log – Write down your settings and tweaks. ✅ Trail test it – Don’t just set it in the garage. Ride, tweak, repeat! ✅ Check settings regularly – Air pressure can change with temperature and elevation.

Final Thoughts

Dialing in your suspension is crucial for getting the most performance and fun out of your bike. Take the time to get it right, and don’t be afraid to experiment based on terrain and riding style. With the right sag and damping settings, your bike will feel more planted, smooth, and predictable—whether you’re charging downhill or tackling technical climbs.

Got questions or tips of your own? Drop them in the comments or reach out—I’d love to hear how your setup is working for you!